University of Milan immunologist Mario Clerici had to pay extra baggage fees for the two huge sacks of candy he toted from Italy to the St. Jude's Children Home, an orphanage in Gulu, Uganda. The children, many of whom have lost both parents to AIDS, could not have been more delighted, and they cheered Clerici. As at an orphanage we visited earlier together near Kampala, the children said goodbye to us by offering a song and a dance. This time, they then prodded me into singing a song. I sang Mayim, a Hebrew water dance, glad to offer something in return.

(Photograph by Malcolm Linton)

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